Lash lifting is an amazing and beautiful treatment. You get 6-8 weeks of lengthened, curled lashes with minimal maintenance required. Lash lifting really is the perfect alternative to standard lash extensions.
Sometimes though, like with any beauty treatments, you may find that it just isn’t working like it should. You may have done everything exactly the same as before but for some reason, it isn’t performing the same as it did with the previous client.
So to help you understand and also help you explain to your client, we want to run through a few of the reasons why lashes may not lift like they should.
Hormones can play a surprising part in how your lashes behave. So if your client has recently had a baby or is on any other medication, it is worth managing their expectations before the treatment to ensure they are aware that the lift may either not take or may drop out quicker than normal. Having a lash lift while pregnant can also affect the lift. Please note: If a reaction occurs on a pregnant client, some medications for treating the reaction may not be suitable. The client should always check with their GP first.
You probably have it in your training manuals or a simple Google search will bring it up, but your clients lash cycle can affect how well the lashes lift. Each individual lash is on its own cycle but if you lift them at the end of their life (Telogen Phase), they will fall out which lessens the lift look. If you lift it at the growing stage (Anagen Phase), the lift may grow out with it. So, for a long lasting lift, you need to be lifting lashes at the transition stage (Catagen Phase), this is when there is no growth but also minimal shed. Unfortunately, this is uncontrollable and luck of the draw but it is worth knowing for your own peace of mind.
Just like the saying “no two sets of eyes are the same”, no two sets of lashes are the same either. This is why good lash lift training is so important. Clients natural lashes can be thick or thin, strong or brittle, dry or oily and each set of natural lashes must be examined and prepared accordingly. If the clients’ lashes are extra oily, the lift won’t take, if the clients’ lashes are dry and brittle, you could over process and damage them. This is something that with experience, you will improve. Don’t start the lash lift process without thoroughly checking and cleaning your clients’ lashes so you know what you are up against.
The perming, setting and nourishing solutions can be used with a wide range of timings. Depending on your clients’ natural lashes, you can leave them on for anywhere between 8-15 minutes (other brands vary). If you get your timings wrong, whether that be one minute too long or one minute too quick, it can really affect how the lashes lift and last. The best thing to do is use the stopwatch on your phone to keep an exact timing for each solution. It may take a bit of getting used to but you’ll soon be able to judge the timings simply for looking at the clients’ lashes.
Depending on the length of your clients lashes, eye shape, lid shape and what look your client wants, you can use different size shields (or rods) to create a beautiful lift. What can affect the lift is using the wrong shield. A lot of people believe that the bigger the shield, the bigger the lift but this is not true. Large shields can offer a softer more natural curl where as a small will provide a more dramatic curl. You will find that your clients will mainly need a small or a medium size for most treatments.
Placement of Perming and Setting Solutions
Solutions should only be placed at the root of the natural lash and not all over. If you place the solution all over from root to tip, you could over process and damage the lash, resulting in a very poor lift. Be careful when placing the solution as more does not equal a better lift.
Too Much Adhesive
This is one of the most common but underrated issues with failed lash lifts. You need the adhesive to stick your clients’ lashes to the shield, but what can happen if you are not careful is that too much adhesive can stop the solution from working on your clients’ lashes. Only use a small amount of adhesive, ideally so that only the top of the clients natural lash is glued to the shield. This will mean that your perming and setting solutions can do their job correctly without the adhesive blocking it.
Out of Date
Now we are not talking about faulty products here. We are talking about storage. Every time the solution is open to the air, it starts to go off. This is whether you use sachets or bottles. So if you have not correctly stored your products, they may not perform as well as they should. The correct way to store your lash lift products is taped up, in a zip seal bag, at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. If you are mobile then it makes it very hard to get consistent storage so your best option is to only take out with you what you will need for that client, leaving the rest at home safely stored.
In conclusion, lash lifting is a very quick and brilliant treatment. It is also a relatively easy one to get the hang of which is one of the reasons it is so popular. The main reason for lash lifts to fail is complacency. If you slow it down very slightly by concentrating on your clients’ lashes and your application, you will start to notice a massive difference in the quality of your lifts.
If you would like more info on lash lifting, take a look at this: A Quick Guide To Lash Lifting
Thank you for reading.