Lash-Ed Magazine Feature.
Winter is most definitely on its way and we’d like to share with you an article written by @LashBase_Jamie that will be featured in the upcoming issue of Lash-Ed Magazine. Lash-Ed Magazine is the newest and in our opinion most thorough, educational and jam-packed lash magazine on the market. The link to Lash-Ed is at the end of this article. Now let’s get going…
This article is all about the changes that are coming to the weather and what you can do to be prepared. I want to make sure that you don’t get caught off guard by the sudden dips in temperature in a similar way to how hundreds of lash artists got caught by the scorching temperatures of summer. Basically, I’m going to tell you how to keep control of your adhesive and maximise retention.
Firstly, I’d like to explain, in the most basic terms, how your lash adhesive works. Lash Adhesive has one main ingredient. It is the same main ingredient in ALL lash adhesives. Cyanoacrylate. To make Cyanoacrylate set/go off/cure, you need moisture. So when temperatures and humidities change, so does the behaviour of our adhesive. Higher humidity means more moisture in the air and lower humidity means the air will be drier.
Now that I have very briefly explained lash adhesive, here’s a list of potential issues and what you can do to be prepared and make sure the colder seasons don’t cause any problems for you or your clients:
The Autumn Lash Shed!
Yep. You heard me. The autumn lash shed. Twice a year, Autumn and Spring, our bodies react to the changing seasons. Our bodies decide it’s time to shed our hair (including our lashes) faster than usual to adjust to the new temperatures and/or lack of sun. Unfortunately, this means that your lashes may fall out faster than usual, resulting in lashes not lasting as long and also the need for a shorter time between infills. Don’t worry though, this will only last for one or two lash cycles and you and your clients will be back to normal before you know it! My advice is to explain this to your clients before each appointment. This will manage expectations and also provide a reason for infills to be booked sooner than they are used to.
I’m writing this in August, it’s sunny and warm, but I am sure by the time you are reading this it’s probably about 9°c and raining. The fact that Summer has gone is bad enough but don’t let the cold temperatures affect your work! Adhesive cures at their best speed between 20-24°c (may vary between brands) so any lower and your adhesive will set slower than you’d expect. The easiest work around is to turn up your heating. Make sure your room is up to temperature before the first client arrives so that your adhesive has time to settle. Alternatively, you will need to use less adhesive and work slower than normal!
When we talk about Humidity in lash terms, we actually mean “Relative Humidity”. Here is the definition of RH: The amount of water vapour present in air expressed as a percentage of the amount needed for saturation at the same temperature. In simple terms, how full the air is of moisture. Did you know that hot air can hold more water vapour/moisture than cold air? This is why it’s likely that when your temperature lowers, the relative humidity % increases.
Now that I’ve briefly explained RH, here’s how it affects lash adhesive…
Too low in relative humidity will slow everything down and your adhesives will take longer to cure which can also lead to sensitisation as the vapours are looking for moisture and are naturally attracted to the moisture around the eyes and nose. Basically, you are more likely to have reaction-like symptoms in low humidity. To increase humidity you can either get a humidifier or even boil a kettle. Anything that adds moisture to the air will help.
If humidity is too high it can cause shock polymerisation of the adhesive. This ‘shock’ polymerisation can lead to a shrinking process of the adhesive layer and weaker bonds. basically, poor retention. To lower humidity, you can either use a dehumidifier, air conditioning or increase ventilation in your room.
The ideal RH for life, in general, is 40-60%. Any higher or lower means better conditions for bacteria and nasty stuff to grow. This goes the same for lashing and your own comfort.
Here’s a controversial one for you… There is no such thing as a lash adhesive that works in a wide range of humidities! Don’t fall for any marketing that suggests otherwise!
Adhesive is the reason for poor retention eight times out of ten. And out of those eight times, all eight are usually down to user error and nothing to do with the adhesive itself.
If you can get your environmental conditions correct, then your adhesive will work as normal. If anything is off, your adhesive will work differently. So your 2 options are to either change your technique or change your environmental conditions. The latter is my preference. Oh and the golden rule; SHAKE YOUR ADHESIVE.
The other potential issue to consider is how you store your adhesive in the colder temperatures. As explained above, lash adhesive is very fussy and loves to be in 20-24°c heat and 40-60% RH. This also goes for when you store it. Before an adhesive is opened, it can actually be stored in a fridge. It’s worth noting that it must be brought up to room temperature before using though. Once it is opened, you need to keep your adhesive somewhere between those stated conditions. Avoid leaving it in your car overnight, in a conservatory or in direct sunlight. Store your adhesive in an airtight container, away from sunlight and at room temperature.
And that’s it! It’s as straightforward as that! If you want to sail through the Autumn and Winter seasons with little to no retention issues then you must do the following 3 things: Control your environment, Store your adhesive correctly and educate your client.
Before I finish, I’d like to give a special shout-out to @alwaysbonitabeauty (Instagram) for the topic recommendation. I asked for some help on my Instagram page and she came up with the idea. Thank you!
If you found this interesting or want some help with your lash business. Find me on Instagram and I’d be happy to give some advice and guidance – @LashBase_Jamie
Definitely check out Lash-Ed Magazine. It’s the perfect place to keep up with all things lashes.
Thanks for reading.