Ethnicity, Lashes & Results

Welcome to our Guest Blogging series.

In this feature, Cairo shares her experience of working with different ethnicities and lash types, exploring why lash lift results can sometimes be underwhelming and how growth patterns, hair structure, and technique all play a role. Through honest insight and professional reflection, she opens up an important conversation about realistic results, lash health, and true customisation.

In this blog, I’ll discuss lash lifts honestly, including why results can sometimes be underwhelming and the challenges of working with excessive or hormonally driven hair growth. I’ll share our professional experiences, explain why not all lashes respond the same, and outline our go-to methods for achieving the best possible results while setting realistic expectations.

Lash lifts have become one of the most requested treatments in the beauty industry, offering clients a low-maintenance way to enhance their natural lashes without extensions. At their core, lash lifts work by restructuring the lash hair to change its direction, creating lift, openness, and definition from the root.

While the concept of curling lashes is not new, lash lifting as we know it today has evolved significantly. Early methods were limited in shield choice, lash suitability, and education, often applying the same approach to every client. As the industry has grown, so has our understanding of lash health, hair science, and the importance of tailoring techniques to individual lash types.

Modern lash lifting now places a much stronger emphasis on consultation, lash behaviour, and long-term lash integrity. We no longer aim for a single "perfect" result for every client, but instead focus on what works best for their natural lashes, eye shape, lifestyle, and growth patterns.

The Rise of the Korean Lash Lift Style

One of the most influential developments in recent years has been the introduction of Korean-inspired lash lift techniques. This approach focuses on lifting the lash from the root rather than curling the tips, creating a straighter, more elongated finish that enhances the eye without overcurling.

Originally developed to suit naturally straight or downward-growing lashes, the Korean lash lift style prioritises lash direction, structure, and health. It has been particularly beneficial for clients whose lashes do not respond well to traditional round shields, including many east & South Asian lash eye types and shapes.

As with any technique, the Korean lash lift is not a one-size-fits-all solution. When used correctly, it becomes a powerful tool for addressing resistant lashes, heavy lash roots, and clients who experience quick drop or underwhelming results. When misunderstood or used purely as a trend, its purpose can be lost.

Understanding where lash lifting has come from, and why certain techniques were developed in the first place, allows technicians to make informed, ethical decisions that prioritise both results and lash health. Education, adaptability, and open discussion are what continue to move this treatment and the industry forward.

Why I wanted to create ELR Group Ethnicity, Lashes & Results

Different lash types and ethnicities are often mentioned briefly during training, but many of us don't fully understand them in practice. Sometimes that's because we haven't yet worked with certain lash types, and sometimes it's because what we were taught doesn't quite translate once we're in the treatment room.

For me, it started with an influx of South Asian clients whose lash lifts were consistently underwhelming compared to my other results. I had worked with long, thick lashes before, but this was different. The lashes grew faster, were heavier at the root, and behaved in a way I hadn't experienced. The bonds were breaking down, the shield choice was technically correct, yet the final result didn't match what I expected. That pushed me to look deeper.

I began researching hair growth patterns, oil production in the skin, and the types of curls and lifts that create the most impact for these clients. It felt like going down a never-ending rabbit hole, but it also made one thing very clear: there is so much more to lash lifting than what most of us are initially taught.

Lash lift discussions can feel overwhelming, especially if you work alone, are newly qualified, have changed systems, or are working with lashes that simply don't behave the way you expect.

We're told to follow guidance, but also not to follow rules blindly.

We're told to stick to processing times, but also that timings won't suit every client.

We're often shown one lash type in training, yet expected to deliver the same results across all ethnicities and lash behaviours.

We're told to avoid smaller shields, but also to achieve visible lift on resistant lashes.

We're told lash health comes first, but clients are shown extreme results online and expect the same.

It's confusing, and that confusion doesn't mean you're doing something wrong.

Following guidance and manufacturer timings is essential; lash health always comes first. But understanding how different lashes respond within those safe boundaries is what builds confidence. Timings are a guide, not a replacement for understanding lash behaviour.

Not everyone has the financial ability to attend multiple masterclasses, and not everyone learns best through online videos. Some artists need hands-on experience and open discussion. Learning isn't always easy or linear, and nobody should feel judged for that.

This is why I created ELR. I wanted a space where lash artists can ask questions without fear, talk openly about working across different ethnicities, share real experiences, tips, and techniques, and feel supported, especially if they work alone. We all learn faster and better when knowledge is shared kindly and accessibly.

This group isn't about having all the answers. It's about learning together.

One of the most frustrating experiences as a technician is following protocol precisely and still feeling disappointed by the result. You've completed a thorough consultation, selected a shield that suits the client's eye shape and lash length, applied the solutions within recommended timings, and adhered to aftercare guidance, yet the lift appears underwhelming, uneven, or drops far sooner than expected.

When this happens, it's easy to assume something has gone wrong. In reality, several factors beyond basic technique can influence the final outcome.

Lash Solution Timings and Lash Behaviour

As previously mentioned, processing times are designed as safe guidelines, not guarantees. Even when timings are followed correctly, lashes with different thicknesses, densities, and internal structures may respond unpredictably. Resistant or thicker lashes may not reshape as visibly, while faster-growing lashes may begin to change direction sooner after treatment.

This does not mean the lash lift has failed or that the lashes were underprocessed. It often means the lashes are behaving in line with their natural biology.

Shield Choice Was Correct, But Lash Direction Matters

Shield selection is often taught as a combination of lash length and eye shape, which is important, and in many lower-cost, oversaturated courses, this is often where the education stops. However, at LashBase they recognise that lash growth direction at the root is equally critical. 

However, lash growth direction at the root is equally critical. Lashes that grow straight forward or downward from the follicle may not lift as expected on round shields, even when the size is technically correct. In these cases, the lift may appear soft or short-lived, not because the wrong shield was chosen, but because the lash needed a different type of structure to change its direction rather than its curl.

Whether performing lash lifts or applying lash extensions, lash health must always be the priority. No technique, trend, or client request should come at the expense of the natural lash. Healthy lashes are the foundation of consistent results, client retention, and long-term trust.

Lashes are delicate hairs with a natural growth cycle that includes growth, rest, and shedding phases. When this cycle is respected, lashes remain strong and resilient. When it is disrupted through overprocessing, excessive weight, or poor aftercare, damage becomes visible, often long before a client realises something is wrong.

In lash lifting, lash health is protected through correct processing times, suitable shield selection, and understanding how different lash types respond to chemical restructuring. 

Overprocessing can lead to dehydration, brittleness, frizzing, or premature breakage, even if the immediate result appears successful.

Equally, underwhelming results can sometimes tempt technicians to compensate by increasing processing times or repeating lifts too soon. This approach risks long-term damage and should always be avoided. Healthy lash lifting relies on patience, correct consultation, and working within safe parameters, even when results need to be built gradually over multiple appointments.

One factor that is often overlooked in lash lift education is excessive or accelerated hair growth and how this can vary across different communities and individuals. Hair growth is influenced by genetics, ethnicity, and hormonal activity, and lashes are no exception.

I have seen that, in certain ethnic groups, including many South Asian clients, it is common to see faster hair growth cycles, thicker hair strands, and denser follicles. This can also be seen in clients with hormonal influences such as PCOS, thyroid imbalances, or naturally higher androgen levels. While these factors are not always visible or disclosed, they can significantly affect how a lash lift behaves.

When lashes grow faster, they change direction and length more quickly after a lift. This means the lifted section of the lash may appear to drop or soften sooner, not because the treatment has failed, but because new growth is already emerging. Combined with heavier lash roots and thicker hair structure, this can make lash lifts appear less long-lasting compared to other clients.

Hormonal hair growth can also affect lash texture, making lashes more resistant to reshaping or more prone to settling quickly. In these cases, forcing a stronger result through longer processing times is not the answer, as this risks compromising lash health.

Understanding these growth patterns allows technicians to adapt safely. For some clients, in my opinion a progressive lash lift approach works better, where lash direction is gradually retrained over multiple appointments rather than pushed in one session. Clear consultation, realistic expectations, and regular maintenance become key to achieving consistent results.

I am not claiming to have all the answers. The beauty industry, and lash education in particular, is constantly evolving, and we are all learning as we go.

Everything shared here comes from my own experiences with real clients, ongoing education, and time spent observing how lashes behave across different individuals, skin types, and communities. These insights are not presented as absolute rules, but as patterns I have noticed in practice and conversations we believe are worth having.

What works beautifully for one client may not work for another. What works in one treatment room may need to be adapted in a different setting. Lash lifting is not a fixed formula, and understanding that takes time, patience, and openness.

By sharing my experiences, the intention is not to challenge existing education, but to add to it. To encourage discussion, reflection, and continued learning within safe and ethical boundaries. When technicians feel supported to ask questions and share observations without judgement, the industry grows stronger.

If something shared here resonates with you, take it as an invitation to explore further. If it doesn't, that's okay too. Education is not about agreement, it's about understanding.

We will continue to learn, adapt, and listen, just as we hope you will. This is an ongoing conversation, and you are very welcome to be part of it. 

Here are just some of the conversations I have had with fellow lash artists:

"In my experience, clients with thicker and downturned natural lashes (which I commonly see in many ethnic clients) can often be left with underwhelming lash lift results when a more natural round rod is used.

I often find that starting with a tighter shield, like the "L" curl shaped sheild helps create a stronger lift that gains better and longer lasting results, specially once the lift begins to drop!

I personally prefer shield shapes that create a more dramatic flick at the base, as the results tend to be far more visible, especially once the lashes have settled. While every client is different, and this approach isn't a one size fits all, this method has consistently worked well for the majority of clients I see with lashes that are prone to dropping or poor retention."

@bellabeautysuite

"Personally, I like to use teardrop shields, particularly on some of my South Asian clients who love a more dramatic lash lift. In my experience, these clients often have lashes that are very consistent in length, with high density, especially through the inner corners. When applied correctly, teardrop shields can create a strong, visible lift that suits this lash type beautifully.

I find it especially important with these clients to ensure every lash is placed cleanly onto the shield, particularly at the front of the eye. Inner corner lashes can easily be missed or caught when securing the lower lashes, which can affect symmetry and the final result if not carefully checked.

Teardrop shields tend to work best on clients without complicating factors, such as heavy downward growth or challenging eye anatomy, and on those who are specifically looking for a more dramatic result. I also find they can work well for clients with shorter lashes, or lashes that are straight or naturally curled, when the goal is lift with impact.

That said, this is not a one size fits all shield. Teardrop shields are not suited to every eye shape and, in my experience, are best avoided on deep set or hooded eyes, where the lift can feel overwhelming or visually heavy.

As with all shield choices, this is about suitability, not preference. While teardrop shields work well for me in certain situations, they will not be right for every client, and that is okay. 

Understanding when to use them, and when not to, is what creates consistent, healthy results."

@cairoaesthetic

"I work with a wide range of clients from different ethnic backgrounds, many of whom come to me after previous lash treatments where their lashes didn't reach their full potential, not because of lack of skill, but because their lash type wasn't fully understood. Factors such as lash density, thickness, and eye shape can vary significantly, and when these aren't considered together, results can fall short.

Before working on any client, I take time to research and understand how their natural lashes grow. I pay close attention to growth direction, density, and where the lashes are most concentrated. In my experience, many clients from the South Asian community have particularly dense lash growth at the inner corners. Once the eyes are closed, these lashes can easily become hidden, making them easy to miss during shield placement and lifting.

To avoid this, I like to gently keep the eye slightly open at the inner corner using a small piece of tape. This allows me to clearly see and isolate those lashes, ensuring they are fully lifted and not left behind. Only once I'm confident all lashes are accounted for do I go on to select the most suitable shield for the client.

This attention to detail allows me to tailor each lash lift to the individual, rather than applying a one size fits all approach, and helps me achieve more consistent, balanced results across different lash types."

Customisation Is Not a Trend, It's the Standard.

For years, clients have sat in lash beds saying the same thing:

"Lashes just don't suit me."

But lashes do suit everyone. What doesn't suit everyone is copy and paste lash work.

Lash extensions are not meant to look the same on every face. Eye shape, lid space, bone structure, lash direction and ethnicity all play a role in how a set should be designed. When these details are ignored, lashes can feel heavy, unflattering, or simply "not you." When they're respected, lashes enhance rather than overpower and suddenly, lashes do suit you.

Why One Style Will Never Suit Every Eye…

No two eyes are the same, yet the industry often treats them as if they are.

Different eye shapes , especially hooded eyes and eyes where lashes grow straighter or closer to the inner corner (common in many South Asian eye shapes) require a completely different approach to mapping, curl choice, length placement and weight.

This is where many lash artists go wrong. Instead of analysing the eye in front of them, the same set is repeated again and again. True customisation means designing lashes that work with the eye, not against it.

The same philosophy applies to lash lifts.

Shield choice, placement and technique matter just as much as the solution used. For hooded eyes or eyes where lashes sit lower or closer to the inner corner, advanced techniques including gentle repositioning of the lid to expose the lash root can make the difference between a lift that disappears and one that truly opens the eye.

Again, it comes back to understanding the eye, not following a formula. Customisation isn't something you copy… it's something you learn. It comes from understanding anatomy, recognising diversity in eye shapes, and having the confidence to adapt your work for each individual client. This level of artistry is exactly what I focus on in my advanced training  masterclasses. This is the heart of my business and what my brand is all about helping artists move beyond trends and into truly personalised lash design.

Because lashes aren't meant to suit some people ,they're meant to suit everyone, when done properly.

Anyone can apply lashes. Not everyone can design them.

That skill is built, refined, and mastered inside The Wispy Bible masterclasses.

INVEST IN YOURSELF x

-@studioecosmetics

 

Cairo is always open to discuss this further, you can do so by sending her a DM: instagram.com/cairoaesthetic/

This guest article reflects the author’s own experiences and perspectives. Any discussion of medical conditions or hormonal factors is for general information only and is not intended as medical advice.