Lashing Different Eye Types
Understanding the different lash styles for different eye shapes is essential for creating customised and flattering looks for your clients. By tailoring your lash extensions to each individual's unique features, you can enhance their natural beauty and boost their confidence.
This guide will provide you with valuable insights into lashing various eye types, helping you become a more skilled and versatile lash tech - and one that your clients love.
Hooded Eyes
The main aim with lash sets for hooded eyes is to conceal the hooded part of the clients eyes with the lashes, without them curling up and irritating the eyelid. It's important to use the right curl and length.
A good curl to use would be CC or M curl as these curls will conceal enough without touching the eyelid. Make sure to choose the right length, you don’t want them to be too long - they need to be long enough to cover the hooded area but short enough that they don’t touch the eyelid.
Mappings that cover the hooded lids are preferred so you need to assess where the hooded part is. If it’s only on the outter corner, a squirrel or natural mapping will work, however if it is all over the lid, you might want to consider a doll eye or round styling.
You can also mix curls and use the stronger curl where the eye is most hooded, and change to a lighter curl on less hooded areas.
It is all about customisation for your client.
By not just being a lash tech but being a lash stylist and creating bespoke styling for your clients (that enhances the right features and covers the less desired ones) you will help boost your clients confidence and will give them something that many others cannot.
Providing bespoke styling will also help you raise your prices, and be more sought after.
Small Eyes
For small eyes, it's important to be cautious with lash extensions, as excessively long lashes can make the eyes appear smaller and heavier.
It is strongly recommended to not use longer than 11mm or 12mm from stronger curls (such as D curl) on the eyes.
To create the illusion of larger eyes, consider using techniques that open or round out the eyes, if the eye shape permits.
Additionally, stronger curls like CC, D, or M can also enhance the eye's appearance where applicable, however be careful with M curl as it already appears longer than your regular curls, always go 1mm shorter with M curl as you would with regular curls.
Wide Eyes
Wide set eyes are fairly easy to measure, if the distance between the eyes is bigger than the length of one eye then we consider it a wide set.
It is very important to style them correctly, and not make the eyes appear further apart.
You want to use lash styles that round and give an opening effect such as dolly, open or even a reverse effect, where the longest length sits on the inner side of the pupil.
These lash maps will help you make your clients eyes seem visually closer to each other.
On the other hand, you want to avoid any lengthening lash styles such as cat, fox, eyeliner, or the use of soft lengthening curls such as B,C or L. These will make your clients eye appear further apart.
Close Set Eyes
When the width between the eyes is smaller than usual, we want to stretch the lash line and elongate the eyes to make them look further apart.
Use a cat eye lash maps to style. Use longer lengths towards the outer corners to visually open up the gap.
Upturned Eyes
When the outer corners are upward facing and the inner corners can crop down a little, we want to keep them looking nice without lifting the corners up any more.
A great style for this eye type is a squirrel lash map. Use a soft curl, adding more length towards the outer corners and shorter inners.
Use the lash map above.
Downturned Eyes
When the outer corners of the eyes are droopy and point down, we want to visually give the eye a more open look and lift the outer corners.
If you can’t quite tell, imagine drawing a straight line across the clients’ eye. If the outer corners turn down beneath the line, then they have downturned eyes.
Use an open style lash map to style that will help take focus away from the down-turned outer corners. Concentrate the length in the area you want to lift or heighten. You can use a stronger curl if the lashes are really straight.
Use the lash map above.
